Monday, November 12, 2012

1550s German Dress- planning

Terminology:


Trossfrau/Kampfrau-  the outer dress seen between 1500-1550 in German and Swiss styles.
Kirtle- underdress
Hemd- chemise
Steuchlein/Wulsthaube- head gear with bulge in the back
         Unterhauben – Literally the undercap
         Wulste – the “bulge” part         Haube – cap          Steuchlein – veil covering
Gollar- short cape/neck cape



Source Images:


I really like the round neckline here, and the guards that go down the front of the skirt. It looks like she is wearing a square neck kirtle Underneath, possibly side laced. 

1520 Hans Holbein, Swiss Gown
Love this dress! In particular I like the 3 park guarded sleeve.
2 part sleeve, and guarded underskirt or kirtle with high neck hemd. 1530-32

The slightly longer gollar here is really cute. Also the high ruffle neck of the Hemd.

Front close, high neck hemd, guarded skirt, and a really niffy pocket bag. Looks like the sleeves are sewn to the front of the dress also.

Edhard Schoen G.1235-1238. Detail – Army Train 1532 The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974.
Back view of the short gollar that is clearly fur lined.

Really clear view of the back wulsthaube

1546 Camp scene of Charles V
Another round neckline and long apron.

Musketeer and Wife 1535
Slashed guards, nigh neck hemd, and funky shoes...medieval toe shoes?

G.1264 Encampment The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974

Another good look at the high neck Hemd, with possible embroidery and a definite ruffle.


1526-1528 Hans the Younger Holbein, Darmstadt Madonna

Edhard Schoen G.1235-1238. Detail – Army Train 1532 The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974.

The guarded gollar and untied veil


My Plan


  • Square neckline in front, round in back
  • Front closure- ring laced
  • Single guard around the neckline and front closure
  • Guards around the base of the skirt
  • Cartridge pleating on the skirt
  • 2 part sleeves
  • Linen, High necked Hemd with embroidered collar
  • Wool Kampfrau, Velvet guards
  • Silk kirtle, side laced, waisted, square neck (maybe with skirt guard(s)?)
  • Longer gollar, fabric undecided.

Ok so...here's the earth- I mean... here's the plan. I am a size 12 American, so I will need:

  • Hemd: 4 yards of light linen, linen thread, silk embroidery thread
  • Kirtle: 1 yard silk lining for bodice, 4 yards silk for dress (I'm thinking green), silk thread. I might skip the lacing here and just make it a pull over for the sake of time and money. No sleeves.
  • Kampfrau- 6 yards wool, wool thread, I want a really nice skirt so lots of fabric will be needed. Orange, blue, yellow or green...whatever is nice at the market
  • Guards- 1 yard black Velvet? I might get 2 to be safe....
  • Extras: rings, embroidery needles, hooks and eyes, ribbon
Where I am in Korea there is a huge fabric market with linen at about $3/yard, silk at $5/yard and wool at $7/yard, velvet I'll guess will be about $5/yard. (Yay Asia!)

$12- Hemd
$25- Kirtle
$42- Kampfrau
$10- Guards
$20- Thread
$10- Extras
__________
$119 (I'll defiantly be shipping this one home!)

Time frame: I need this to be done by January 5th, so that gives me 7 weeks to finish. I may be a little over ambitious here...lol.
Week 1: Buy the materials, and Cut the Hemd and the Kirtle bodice. Try to smock the collar by the end of the week.
Week 2: Embroidery and kirtle bodice sewing
Week 3: Finish the Hemd, cut the kirtle skirt and hem
Week 4: Finsish Kirtle, and pattern/cut/pin Kampfrau bodice
Week 5: Sew Kampfrau bodice, cut sleeves and sew
Week 6: Kampfrau skirt and guards
Week 7: (If I'm still alive and magically on schedule) gollar.

Update: Bought the fabric! I was really short on time in the massive catacombs of the Dongdeamun Market so I wasnt able to spend as much time as I would have liked looking for the perfect fabrics, but I am pretty happy with what I got.


4 yards of White Linen for the Hemd- $12

5 yards of linen/wool blend for Kirtle- $15

5 yards of green wool for Kampfrau- $25

2 yards of black wool for guards- $10

2 yards of linen for lining- $6

Extras: $6

Total spent: $74- so it was a lot cheaper then I originally thought it would be! Woo! 



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