Terminology:
Trossfrau/Kampfrau- the outer dress seen between 1500-1550 in German and Swiss styles.
Kirtle- underdress
Hemd- chemise
Steuchlein/Wulsthaube- head gear with bulge in the back
Unterhauben – Literally the undercap
Wulste – the “bulge” part Haube – cap Steuchlein – veil covering
Gollar- short cape/neck cape
Source Images:
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| I really like the round neckline here, and the guards that go down the front of the skirt. It looks like she is wearing a square neck kirtle Underneath, possibly side laced. |
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| 1520 Hans Holbein, Swiss Gown Love this dress! In particular I like the 3 park guarded sleeve. |
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| 2 part sleeve, and guarded underskirt or kirtle with high neck hemd. 1530-32 |
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| The slightly longer gollar here is really cute. Also the high ruffle neck of the Hemd. |
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| Front close, high neck hemd, guarded skirt, and a really niffy pocket bag. Looks like the sleeves are sewn to the front of the dress also. |
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| Edhard Schoen G.1235-1238. Detail – Army Train 1532 The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974. Back view of the short gollar that is clearly fur lined. |
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| Really clear view of the back wulsthaube |
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| Musketeer and Wife 1535 Slashed guards, nigh neck hemd, and funky shoes...medieval toe shoes? |
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| G.1264 Encampment The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974 |
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| Another good look at the high neck Hemd, with possible embroidery and a definite ruffle. |
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| 1526-1528 Hans the Younger Holbein, Darmstadt Madonna |
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| Edhard Schoen G.1235-1238. Detail – Army Train 1532 The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974. |
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| The guarded gollar and untied veil |
- Square neckline in front, round in back
- Front closure- ring laced
- Single guard around the neckline and front closure
- Guards around the base of the skirt
- Cartridge pleating on the skirt
- 2 part sleeves
- Linen, High necked Hemd with embroidered collar
- Wool Kampfrau, Velvet guards
- Silk kirtle, side laced, waisted, square neck (maybe with skirt guard(s)?)
- Longer gollar, fabric undecided.
Ok so...here's the earth- I mean... here's the plan. I am a size 12 American, so I will need:
- Hemd: 4 yards of light linen, linen thread, silk embroidery thread
- Kirtle: 1 yard silk lining for bodice, 4 yards silk for dress (I'm thinking green), silk thread. I might skip the lacing here and just make it a pull over for the sake of time and money. No sleeves.
- Kampfrau- 6 yards wool, wool thread, I want a really nice skirt so lots of fabric will be needed. Orange, blue, yellow or green...whatever is nice at the market
- Guards- 1 yard black Velvet? I might get 2 to be safe....
- Extras: rings, embroidery needles, hooks and eyes, ribbon
Where I am in Korea there is a huge fabric market with linen at about $3/yard, silk at $5/yard and wool at $7/yard, velvet I'll guess will be about $5/yard. (Yay Asia!)
$12- Hemd
$25- Kirtle
$42- Kampfrau
$10- Guards
$20- Thread
$10- Extras
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$119 (I'll defiantly be shipping this one home!)
Time frame: I need this to be done by January 5th, so that gives me 7 weeks to finish. I may be a little over ambitious here...lol.
Week 1: Buy the materials, and Cut the Hemd and the Kirtle bodice. Try to smock the collar by the end of the week.
Week 2: Embroidery and kirtle bodice sewing
Week 3: Finish the Hemd, cut the kirtle skirt and hem
Week 4: Finsish Kirtle, and pattern/cut/pin Kampfrau bodice
Week 5: Sew Kampfrau bodice, cut sleeves and sew
Week 6: Kampfrau skirt and guards
Week 7: (If I'm still alive and magically on schedule) gollar.
Update: Bought the fabric! I was really short on time in the massive catacombs of the Dongdeamun Market so I wasnt able to spend as much time as I would have liked looking for the perfect fabrics, but I am pretty happy with what I got.
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